This will tolerate heavy shade and any soil as long as it's not too chalky. At its very best when pruned into a single trunked tree - rather than a great sprawling mess!
All woody plants that are going to be shaped, need to be cut at a time in the growing season when there will still be enough time for new growth to come (often mid to late summer) so that by the time winter comes along, they don't look like they've just had a haircut. There is a particular problem associated with all Cherries (Prunus); pruning the leaves in mid summer makes them susceptible to attack by an endemic fungus that causes 'shot hole'. This effects the new leaves that grow after pruning - they emerge discoloured and full of little holes. It doesn't have a lasting effect but does look unsightly and is best avoided. How? Never prune Prunus in Junus....Try pruning, up to the middle of May or after mid July to be on the safe side. Good luck!
As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate around the base of a tree can be fatal.
IF IT HAS A GREEN TRAFFIC LIGHT
Hardy anywhere in Britain below approximately 1000ft (300m)
This is only meant as a guide. Please remember we're always on hand to give advice about plants and their frost hardiness.
Please remember that these coloured labels are only a rough guide.
General Point about Plant Hardiness: The commonly held belief that it's better to 'plant small' is perfectly true with herbaceous plants, but not necessarily true with woody plants. They need some 'wood' on them to survive severe cold - so plants of marginal hardiness in very cold areas should really be planted LARGER, rather than smaller, wherever possible.
|Hedges, Screening Plants, Shade, Shrubs, Soil - Clay, Soil - Dry/Well drained, Soil - Soggy, Space & Light, Trees - Small|